Caring for Suede and Nubuck: The Ultimate Delicate Leather Care Guide

Suede and nubuck leather offer a luxurious, velvety texture that elevates any item – from shoes and jackets to bags. However, these delicate finishes require special care to keep them looking their best. While suede and nubuck differ in how they’re made (suede is the fuzzy underside of leather, whereas nubuck is the buffed outer side), both share similar maintenance needs. In this dedicated care guide, we’ll cover preventative care, how to remove stains without damaging the nap, and the best products and tools (like brushes and erasers) for keeping suede and nubuck in top shape. With the right techniques, you can enjoy your suede and nubuck items for years while preserving their signature soft texture.

Preventative Care for Suede and Nubuck

“Prevention is better than cure” rings especially true for suede and nubuck. Right from the start, take steps to protect these materials before you even venture out wearing them:

• Apply a Protective Spray: Before first use (and periodically thereafter), apply a suede/nubuck protector spray evenly over the item. This creates an invisible shield against water, dirt, and stains. Make sure the spray is specifically made for suede and nubuck – avoid regular leather treatments. Use the spray outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, and hold the can about 6–8 inches (15 cm) away from the surface for a light, even coating. Lift any folds (such as shoe tongues or jacket flaps) to get full coverage. Let it dry completely (usually 30 minutes). Reapply this protective coating about once a year or more often if the item is frequently exposed. (Tip: water-based or fluorochemical-free protectants are preferred, as some silicone or “nano” sprays can eventually dry out the leather.)
• Weather Awareness: Try to avoid heavy rain or snow when wearing suede or nubuck. These leathers are not naturally waterproof, and moisture can cause stains or texture changes. If you do get caught in wet weather, don’t panic – just be prepared to dry and treat the item (we’ll cover that in the cleaning section). If you live in a rainy or snowy climate, the protective spray is a must, and you might even consider an additional waterproofer treatment in winter months. Remember, though, that even the best waterproofing only reduces water absorption and needs reapplication over time; it doesn’t make suede/nubuck invincible to water.
• Regular Gentle Brushing: Make a habit of brushing your suede or nubuck items occasionally, even when they’re not visibly dirty. Dust and tiny dirt particles can settle into the nap (the raised fibers) over time, dulling the appearance. Use a soft-bristled suede brush and gently brush the surface to dislodge dust. This not only keeps them clean but also maintains the nap’s soft, uniform look. Regular brushing prevents grime from embedding in the fibers, meaning you won’t have to do heavy cleaning as often.
• Avoid Oils and Chemicals: Keep suede and nubuck away from direct contact with oils, grease, or any harsh chemicals. For example, if you’re applying hand cream or hair products, let them fully dry before handling your suede bag or wearing a suede jacket – these leathers absorb oils easily, leading to dark, hard-to-remove stains. Similarly, avoid stickers or tapes on suede (the adhesive can pull at the fibers and leave residue).
• Test Products First: Whether it’s a new protector spray or a cleaning solution, always test on an inconspicuous area of the suede/nubuck first. This way, you can ensure it doesn’t darken the color or damage the texture. Most high-quality sprays dry clear without changing the feel, but a patch test is a safe practice with any new product.

Essential Tools and Products for Suede & Nubuck Care

Caring for suede and nubuck is much easier when you have the right tools. Here are the must-haves for your leather care kit:

• Suede/Nubuck Brush: This is a specialized brush with soft bristles (often rubbery crepe, nylon, or natural fibers). It’s used to gently clean and revive the nap. Some brushes have two sides – a side with soft bristles for general cleaning and a side with stiffer brass or metal bristles for tougher dirt on sturdier nubuck. Generally, use the soft side for suede (and for routine brushing of any item) and reserve the mild use of the stiffer side for nubuck or heavily soiled areas. Always brush in one direction (following the grain of the nap) with light strokes to avoid damaging the fibers. Regular brushing lifts the pile and keeps that velvety feel.
• Suede Eraser (Cleaning Block): Suede erasers are like firm crumbly rubber blocks (resembling a pencil eraser or a block of compressed fibers). They are excellent for spot-cleaning dry stains, scuffs, and shiny marks. By gently rubbing the eraser on a spot, you can “erase” many marks without hurting the nap. This works by crumbling and lifting the dirt out of the suede. If you don’t have a dedicated suede eraser, a clean art gum eraser or white pencil eraser can work in a pinch for small areas. Use gentle pressure and rub back and forth on a scuff or stain until it lifts – but do not grind hard in one spot, or you might thin out the nap.
• Clean White Cloths: Have a few soft, lint-free cloths (like microfiber or cotton) for wiping and blotting. These are useful for dabbing away moisture and applying any cleaning solutions. Always use a white or light-colored cloth – colored cloths could bleed dye into your suede when wet.
• Suede Cleaner or Shampoo: For more thorough cleaning, especially if the item is very dirty or stained, a suede/nubuck-specific cleaning solution is invaluable. These usually come in liquid form (sometimes called a “suede shampoo”) and are formulated to lift dirt without harsh effects. Typically, you would mix a bit of the solution with water or use as directed, apply with a brush or sponge, and then rinse or wipe away. Never use regular leather cleaners or soaps on suede or nubuck – they can saturate and damage the fuzzy surface or leave residues. Only use products labeled for suede/nubuck. (If you don’t have a commercial cleaner on hand, one gentle home remedy is a very diluted mix of mild dish soap, but use that only if necessary and test it first.)
• Protective Spray: As mentioned in preventative care, a water and stain repellent spray made for suede and nubuck is crucial. It’s not just for new items – you’ll use it after cleaning to re-protect the item. This product helps water bead off rather than soak in, and makes it easier to brush off dirt. Always apply it to clean, dry suede/nubuck (applying protectant over dirt could seal the dirt in!).
• Absorbent Powder (Cornstarch or Talcum Powder): Keep some plain cornstarch or unscented talcum powder available. These household powders are great for extracting oil or grease from suede. If you ever get an oily stain (say, from food or an accidental oil spill), you can apply these powders to absorb the oil (more on that in the stain removal section). Some suede-specific products called “dry cleaners” or “terre de Sommières” (a type of clay powder) serve a similar purpose.
• Shoe Trees or Stuffing: For suede or nubuck shoes and boots, use shoe trees (typically made of cedar wood) or acid-free paper stuffing when you’re not wearing them. These help maintain the shape, prevent creases, and also lightly deodorize/moisturize (cedar absorbs moisture and odors). If you don’t have shoe trees, stuffing the toes with crumpled plain paper or newspaper (ink can transfer, so wrap newspaper in plain paper) works as well. Keeping the shape is part of care – it prevents stress wrinkles and makes cleaning easier since the surface will be smooth.
• Wide Hangers and Dust Bags (for garments): If you’re caring for a suede or nubuck jacket or coat, hang it on a broad, padded hanger to support the shoulders (skin can stretch if hung poorly). Use a breathable garment bag or cover (cotton or muslin dust bag) to protect it from dust. Avoid plastic garment bags; plastic traps moisture which can lead to mildew or drying out of the leather. Always store garments in a cool, dry closet away from direct sunlight to prevent fading.

With these tools on hand, you’re equipped to handle routine care and most cleaning tasks. Next, let’s go step-by-step through cleaning and stain removal for these materials.

How to Clean Suede and Nubuck (Routine Cleaning)

Even with preventative care, eventually your suede or nubuck will need a refresh. Regular cleaning keeps dirt from building up and removes small stains before they become big eyesores. Here’s a simple step-by-step routine for general cleaning:

1. Ensure the Item is Dry: Only clean suede or nubuck when it’s dry. If the item is wet or even damp from a recent spill, let it air dry first (details on drying wet suede are below). Cleaning or brushing while wet can spread stains and potentially damage the texture.
2. Brush Off Loose Dirt: Using your suede brush, gently go over the entire surface to lift off dust, dried mud, or any loose particles. Use light strokes in one direction. For shoes, you can brush from the top down to the toe. This step alone often revives the appearance. If you see the nap lying flat or shiny in places (from wear), a gentle brushing can lift it. Tip: For stubborn dried-on dirt, you can brush a bit more firmly or even very lightly scrape with the edge of a credit card to loosen chunks of mud – but be gentle to avoid scraping the leather itself.
3. Use an Eraser for Scuffs: After brushing, inspect for any scuff marks or spots that didn’t come off. Take your suede eraser block and rub it gently on those areas. It’s especially effective on the toe and heel areas of shoes where scuffs happen, or on jacket cuffs. Crumbs from the eraser will fall off – that’s normal (just brush them away afterward). Work the eraser on the mark until it lightens or disappears. Remember to be patient and avoid excessive force; multiple gentle rubs are better than one heavy-handed scrub.
4. Wipe with a Clean Cloth: Once you’ve brushed and erased, take a clean dry cloth and lightly wipe down the item. Go in the direction of the grain. This picks up any remaining dust or eraser particles and gives a uniform finish. At this stage, if your item only had surface dirt, you’re done cleaning! The suede/nubuck should look refreshed.
5. Deep Cleaning (If Needed): If the item still looks dull, stained, or grimy in areas (for instance, suede shoes that have been worn many times without prior cleaning), you may need a deeper clean using a suede cleaning solution or a mild DIY method:

• Using Suede Cleaner: Follow the product instructions. Typically, you’ll apply a small amount of the suede cleaner to a damp sponge or cloth and gently work it into the suede to create a light lather. Use a circular motion on the surface – this helps lift dirt from the fibers. Don’t soak the suede; just use the foam. Then, either wipe off with a slightly damp cloth or rinse lightly as directed. Another method is to dilute a specialized suede shampoo with water (often a 1:4 ratio of cleaner to water) and use the included brush to scrub lightly, then rinse. Key point: After any wet cleaning, you must let the item dry completely (and naturally) before wearing or further brushing.
• Homemade Mild Cleaner: If you don’t have a commercial cleaner, you can try using a tiny drop of mild dish soap in a cup of water or white vinegar diluted with equal part water. Vinegar is great because it doesn’t leave residue and helps with odors too. Lightly dampen your cloth with the solution and dab or rub gently on the soiled areas. You might see the suede darken from the moisture – this is normal and it will lighten back once dry. Clean in small sections and don’t saturate the leather.

1. Drying Properly: After any cleaning that involves moisture, let the suede or nubuck air dry naturally. Place the item in a cool, dry place away from direct heat or sunlight. Do not use a hair dryer, heater, or put it in the sun to speed up drying – high heat can cause the leather to shrink, warp, or become brittle. If it’s shoes that were quite wet, stuff them with paper to help absorb moisture and keep shape. Drying may take several hours or overnight. Be patient – ensuring it’s fully dry is important.
2. Revive the Nap: Once the item is fully dry, it might look a bit dull or stiff. Brush it again with your suede brush to restore the softness. If parts of the suede feel stiff or have flattened fibers, focus on those areas with gentle brushing or even use a suede stone (a rough-edged block designed to pull up the nap). Brush in one direction so it all looks even. At this point, your suede or nubuck should feel soft and look clean, with the fine nap uniformly raised.
3. Re-Protect: Finally, after cleaning and drying, apply the protector spray again (especially if a deep cleaning washed away previous coatings). This will help guard against new stains and water. Ensure the item is dry and clean before spraying. A light, even mist is enough. Let it dry, and you’re ready to go.

Routine cleaning like the above doesn’t have to be done too often – just whenever you notice the item looks a bit soiled or after an exposure (e.g., you got caught in a dusty environment or a light rain). Regular gentle care prevents the need for aggressive cleaning later on.

Removing Stains Without Damaging the Nap

Accidents happen – maybe you spilled coffee on your suede boots, or brushed your nubuck bag against a dirty car tire. When confronting stains on suede/nubuck, the goal is to remove the offender while preserving that delicate fuzzy finish (nap). Here’s how to tackle common scenarios:

General Tips for All Stains:

• Act Quickly (but Carefully): The sooner you address a stain, the better the outcome. Suede and nubuck are porous and can absorb spills quickly. However, never panic and start scrubbing frantically – aggressive rubbing can permanently damage the nap and even push the stain deeper. Instead, respond promptly but gently as described below.
• Blot, Don’t Rub: For any liquid spill (water, wine, coffee, etc.), immediately blot the area with a clean dry cloth or paper towel. Press lightly to absorb excess liquid. Do not rub in circles or swipe back and forth – rubbing wet suede will spread the moisture and could distort the nap, creating a rough patch.
• Let it Dry First: It might sound counterintuitive, but many stains (especially water-based ones) are easier to assess and remove after the initial moisture dries. A wet patch on suede often appears very dark – if you start messing with it while it’s wet, you won’t truly know the extent of the stain. Once it dries, sometimes you’ll see there’s hardly a mark left, or you can then treat it with an eraser or cleaner appropriately. Exception: Thick liquids or solids (mud, ketchup, etc.) – remove any solids gently while wet, as described below, but still let any remaining dampness dry out before full cleaning.

Now, let’s go through specific stain types and how to handle them:

• Water Stains: Pure water can leave a visible “watermark” on suede – a dark tide-like ring or stiff area. If your suede got raindrops or a small water spill, one trick is to lightly dampen the surrounding area to avoid a ring. Use a damp cloth or a mist spray to slightly wet the suede around the perimeter of the water spot, then blot and let it all dry together. This way, you won’t get a concentrated water line. Once dry, vigorously brush the area to even out the texture. If the watermark persists, you can try a suede eraser on the edges of the ring or gently use a suede cleaner as needed. For items soaked by rain, refer to the “Wet Suede Emergency” below.
• Mud or Dirt: If you get mud on suede or nubuck, resist the urge to wipe it while wet. Let the mud dry completely; it will turn into dry dirt clumps that are much easier to crumble and brush off without smearing. Once dried, use your brush (or even fingers or a dull tool) to flake off as much as possible. Then proceed with brushing and perhaps a bit of eraser action for any residual stain. A slightly damp cloth can be used to dab any remaining dirt. Always dry and brush after.
• Scuff Marks: These are the dark or shiny areas you get when the nap has been pressed or rubbed (like the back of shoes from driving, or where two shoes hit each other). Use the suede eraser or a suede stone to rub the scuffed area. This friction lifts the flattened fibers and removes the shiny appearance. After “erasing,” brush the area to blend it with the rest. Stubborn scuffs might need a repeat treatment. In some cases, a fine sandpaper (very fine grit) can be used very lightly on nubuck to resurface it – but be extremely cautious with this approach and try other methods first.
• Oil and Grease Stains: These are tricky because suede readily absorbs oils, causing dark spots. Common culprits are food grease, body oils on jacket collars, or lotion/makeup. As soon as you notice an oily mark, apply a generous amount of cornstarch or talcum powder to the spot. The powder will start drawing out the oil from the leather. Leave the powder on for several hours, ideally overnight, so it can absorb as much as possible. (During this time, keep the item in a dry place where it won’t be disturbed.) After that, gently brush or shake off the powder. Much of the oil may be gone with the powder; if the spot is still there, repeat with fresh powder for another night. Once you’ve done that, if a slight stain remains, you can use a suede cleaner or a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on a cloth to blot the area (alcohol can break down remaining oils and will evaporate without leaving residue). Always re-fluff the fibers with a brush after treating an oil stain. Note: Do not apply water to oil stains initially – water can hinder the powder’s absorption process. Stick to dry methods first.
• Food or Beverage Spills: For things like coffee, tea, wine, or sauce, first blot up as much liquid as possible (as mentioned earlier). If it’s something like ketchup or mud, remove the excess gently with a spoon or dull knife without pushing it in. After blotting/removing excess, let the stain dry. Once dry, try the eraser method to see if it lifts the residue. If not, lightly dab the area with white vinegar or rubbing alcohol on a cloth. These substances can effectively dissolve many food-based stains and will evaporate quickly. Dab (don’t soak) and then blot dry. You may need a few cycles of dab and blot. Once it’s improved and dry, brush the nap back up. For sugary stains (soda, juice), a drop of mild dish soap in water on a cloth can help, followed by a water-only damp cloth to “rinse,” since sugar can leave a stiff residue. Always dry thoroughly afterward.
• Ink or Dye Transfer: Ink stains on suede are some of the toughest to remove. If a pen leaks on your suede, or your dark jeans transfer dye onto light nubuck shoes, you can attempt the following: Use a cotton swab lightly dipped in rubbing alcohol or special suede ink remover if you have it. Gently dab the ink spot – you might see some ink come off on the swab. Keep using clean swabs so you’re lifting ink rather than spreading it. Do not oversaturate or you could spread the ink. This may fade the stain but often ink penetrates deeply. Do not use acetone or harsh chemicals – they will damage the suede further. In many cases, ink stains are best left to professional cleaners, especially on valuable items.
• Sticky Substances (Gum, Wax): If you get chewing gum or candle wax on suede, harden it first by placing the item in a plastic bag and then in the freezer for an hour or so. The gum or wax will solidify, making it easier to crack off in pieces. Gently flex the suede to help release the hardened substance, then pick off the bits. After that, there might still be a dark spot or residue – treat that with a suede cleaner or a bit of rubbing alcohol on a cloth. Always finish by brushing.

Wet Suede/Nubuck Emergency: What if it’s soaked?

If your suede or nubuck item gets thoroughly wet (soaked through) from heavy rain or snow, the priority is to dry it correctly:

• Gently remove excess water: For shoes, take them off, remove laces and insoles if possible. Shake off water and blot with a towel to absorb moisture on the surface. For a jacket, shake off water and blot with a towel.
• Restore shape: While it’s still wet, insert shoe trees or stuff shoes with paper to hold their shape. For jackets, use a padded hanger. This prevents excessive shrinkage or warping as it dries.
• Air dry slowly: As mentioned, keep away from heat sources. Let the item dry at room temperature. This may take a full day or more for heavy items like boots.
• After drying – fix the nap: Dried suede might feel stiff. Use a suede brush or velour brush to gently go over the entire surface. Stiff, “crusty” areas can be massaged or very lightly buffed with a suede stone to loosen them, then brushed. The goal is to “raise” the nap back up where the water flattened it.
• Address water stains: If you see a tidemark, you may need to lightly re-dampen and equalize as discussed earlier, or use a cleaner to even it out. Often, a thorough brushing is enough if the water was clean.
• Re-condition (if needed): While standard leather conditioners are not for suede, there are suede conditioning sprays that replenish oils. Some heavy exposure to water can remove natural oils – if the suede feels exceptionally dry or brittle after cleaning and drying, look for a suede/nubuck conditioning product to lightly apply (or consult a professional).

• Finally, once your item is dry, soft, and brushed out, don’t forget to reapply your suede protector spray to restore its water-repellency for the future.

When to Seek Professional Help

For particularly tough stains or if you’re unsure, it might be best to take the item to a professional cleaner experienced with suede and leather. For example:

• Large oil stains that home methods didn’t fully remove.
• Serious ink stains.
• Suede that has been improperly cleaned before and needs restoration.
• Expensive or sentimentally valuable items on which you don’t want to experiment.

Professional cleaners have specialized solutions (and machines like dry cleaning for suede) that can sometimes rescue things we can’t at home. They can also re-oil the hide if it has dried out. As a rule of thumb, if you’ve tried gentle methods and made progress but not fully solved the issue, don’t risk aggressive techniques – seek a pro. It’s worth it to prolong the life of a high-quality suede or nubuck piece.

Storing and Maintaining Suede/Nubuck Long-Term

Day-to-day cleaning is one thing, but long-term care of suede and nubuck will ensure they stay beautiful over many seasons:

• Proper Storage: Always store suede and nubuck in a cool, dry place. Humidity is leather’s enemy – too much moisture and you risk mold or mildew; too little (plus heat) and the leather can dry out and crack. A closet that isn’t prone to dampness is ideal. Keep items out of direct sunlight; prolonged sun exposure can fade the colors and also dry the leather. For shoes, consider keeping them in their shoe bags or a shoe storage box that breathes. For jackets or larger items, a cloth garment bag is excellent, as mentioned earlier.
• Avoid Plastic Covers: It’s worth repeating – never wrap suede/nubuck in plastic for storage. Plastic will trap moisture and could cause the leather to become musty or even grow mold. Instead, use the breathable dust bags that often come with leather goods, or even a pillowcase works as a cover for a handbag or shoes. If hanging a jacket without a garment bag, even draping an old clean cotton sheet over it can keep dust off while letting air circulate.
• Rotate Usage: If you have favorite suede shoes, try not to wear the same pair every single day. Give them a day off to air out and dry any absorbed moisture (from foot sweat or environment). Rotating shoes prolongs their life significantly. Likewise, if a suede jacket got a bit damp or sweaty, let it fully air out on a hanger before cramming it back in the closet.
• Reapplication of Protectant: Suede protectant isn’t a one-and-done deal. Over time (and especially after cleaning), its effectiveness diminishes. Make it a habit to re-spray your items every so often. For items worn frequently, every few months is good; for rarely used items, just at the start of the season when you pull them out (for instance, spray your suede boots every fall when you begin wearing them again). Remember to clean or at least brush the item before spraying, so you’re not trapping any dirt.
• Moth and Pest Protection: Suede, being an animal product, can sometimes attract leather-eating insects in dark storage (though it’s less common than with wool or fur, it’s possible). If storing long-term, you might consider keeping cedar blocks or sachets of lavender in your storage space – these naturally deter pests and also keep things smelling fresh. Avoid mothballs as they smell awful and the odor is hard to remove from suede.
• Check on Stored Items: If you’re storing suede or nubuck for a long period (months), take a peek at them periodically. Give them a quick brush. This prevents any surprises like discovering a mildew spot or a crease that set in. Early intervention is key if you spot any issues.
• Handle with Clean Hands: Oils from our hands can gradually soil the edges (like collars, cuffs, or the top edge of suede bags). When possible, handle suede items with clean hands, or by their straps, etc. For shoes, use a shoe horn to avoid grabbing the suede heel too much when putting them on.

By following these storage and maintenance practices, your suede and nubuck will remain in superb condition and be ready to wear whenever you desire, without nasty surprises.

Conclusion

Suede and nubuck leather might require a bit more TLC than regular smooth leather, but the effort is well worth it. Their rich texture and appearance can last for many years if you clean and care for them properly. To recap, remember to protect before you wear, brush regularly, and tackle stains with a gentle touch (blot, don’t rub!). Keep a good suede brush and eraser on hand – these simple tools handle the majority of upkeep. When cleaning, be patient and let things dry fully at each step. And whenever in doubt, don’t hesitate to consult a professional for help rather than risk damage with harsh methods.

With preventative care, the right tools, and the techniques outlined above, you can confidently maintain your suede and nubuck items. They’ll reward you by looking and feeling luxurious every time you use them. Embrace the process – caring for these leathers can even be satisfying, as you watch scuffs vanish and the velvety nap restored under your brush. Enjoy your suede and nubuck pieces, knowing that even though they’re delicate, you’ve got the knowledge to keep them soft, beautiful, and long-lasting!